www.CaucasusNow.com » Notes From Hairenik http://caucasusnow.com Your Truth About Caucasus Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:50:49 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 en hourly 1 Golden Apricot Wrap-up http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/ZRM6XV_J-0s/golden-apricot-wrap-up.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/ZRM6XV_J-0s/golden-apricot-wrap-up.html#comments Mon, 19 Jul 2010 13:13:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-8617457404135018217 Golden Apricot Film Festival during the weekend. Both of them were definitely worth seeing in my opinion. And if I forgot to mention in my previous post, as with virtually all the other films that I saw, impressively both English and Armenian subtitles were displayed, with no one tortuously reading a translation of a script at a deafening volume, as was the case two years ago when I saw Michelangelo Antonioni's "The Red Desert" (which is incidentally a highly overrated, annoyingly tedious film, but anyway...).

"White Material" (2009, dir. Claire Denis). This film tells the story of a woman named Maria, played by the veteran actress Isabelle Huppert, working on a coffee plantation in an unnamed country in Africa --probably a former colony of France since everyone is speaking French -- who obstinately refuses to leave her work behind and protect her family from the rebel threat ravaging the region. The rebel troops are composed of children and teenagers, pistols and machetes in hand, eagerly waiting to purge the countryside of whites who are seen as oppressive. Andre, Maria's husband played by Highlander Christopher Lambert, cannot convince her that they should leave immediately when arrangements are made for their escape to France. The entire film takes place over a span of two days, during which things fall apart rapidly. Their mentally fragile teenage son after being humiliated by two armed rebel boys who manage to enter the plantation grounds when everyone is oblivious, ends up assisting the rebel battalion to bring things to a boil, while Maria remains defiant to the end. This film was unfortunately screened from what seemed to be a rather low-quality DVD given the muted colors and lack of sharpness, although the resolution wasn't bad. This is the kind of compelling film that you ruminate over for a couple of days after you leave the theater. Highly recommended.

"Poetry (2010, dir. Lee Chang-don). "Poetry" is about an elderly woman named Mija (brilliantly portrayed by Yoon Jung-hee) who one day decides to take a month-long poetry writing class. On the same day she learns of a suicide of a young teenage girl, a classmate of her spoiled grandson who she is raising. After being called to a meeting of five men whose boys attend the same school as the girl, Mija learns that her grandson was part of a pack of six that was regularly raping her. They decide that the best way to handle the situation discretely is to offer a monetary payment to the girl's mother, with Mija being unable to pay her share. Meanwhile, Mija, who is annoyed by her recent forgetfulness of words, is diagnosed with Alzheimer's disease. But the real story behind this film is about finding one's place on earth, and how to balance upholding personal morales with prudent practicality, then best express that revelation in words. This is a beautiful, moving film, a true masterpiece of Asian cinema. Highly recommended.

To read the list of winners you can read the press release at the Golden Apricot web site. I noticed that the nihilistic film "My Joy" took second prize for reasons I will never comprehend. I guess some of the jurists get their kicks from sadistic, pointless movies. Although I didn't see the winning film, "Kosmos," I really believe that "Poetry" should have at least placed second. In terms of storyline and overall high quality of the acting, not to mention cinematography, the film deserved more respect from the jury.

Top photo: Everett Collection/Rex Features
Bottom photo: Lee Chang-don
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/ZRM6XV_J-0s/golden-apricot-wrap-up.html/feed 0 Golden Apricot Update http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/LB9JL9Nw_X8/golden-apricot-update.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/LB9JL9Nw_X8/golden-apricot-update.html#comments Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:32:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-2896267428779946701 Golden Apricot International Film Festival in Yerevan only in the evenings. The festival will unfortunately be wrapping up Sunday evening. Here’s a quick synopsis of the films—three of which were impressively projected from celluloid and not digital sources—I’ve seen so far:

“The Beekeeper,” starring Marcello Mastroianni (1986, dir. Theo Angelopoulos). This film is about a middle-aged man who quits his job as a teacher in rural Greece and leaves his home and wife behind to follow in the beekeeping traditions of his father and forefathers. Along the way he stumbles upon a chance meeting with a high-spirited, oversexed teenager and can’t shake her loose on his travels along the Greek coastline, making stops in villages to see friends and set his beehives in pastures. The cinematography is stunning, the acting is top-notch. Seems Marcello was actually speaking his lines in Greek, since it indeed sounded like his voice, although I can’t be sure of this. The ending was weird, which from personal experience viewing European films for well over 20 years was expected. Recommended.

“Venezzia” (2009, dir. Haik Gazarian). The story of this film, which was shown in the Poghosyan Gardens (a.k.a., Lover’s Park), is set during World War II in Venezuela, about an American communications specialist named Frank Moore who is on a mission to intercept radio messages that may be dubious. Within hours after he arrives there, he meets the wife of the local Captain who is hosting him and providing the equipment to undertake his responsibilities. The wife, Venezzia, naturally for any love story is drop-dead gorgeous, and Frank seems to spend most of his time hanging out with her instead of doing his job. The remainder of the film involves escapades in steamy romance, espionage and conflict, again typical of war-time love stories. Recommended.

“My Joy” (2010, dir. Sergei Loznitsa). “My Joy,” a joint German-Ukrainian-Dutch production, is mainly set in a God-forsaken region of rural Russia. A sensible truck driver who is determined to deliver his load gets sidetracked on a detour and loses his way. Eventually he his hijacked, hit across the head from behind with a log, and becomes a living zombie. What follows is 90 minutes of nightmarish scenes from the past and present leading up to random, senseless killings. Despite that the cinematography, set design and the contrasting colors were marvelous throughout, it ranks as one of the most horrific films I have ever seen. The movie even starts with a scene of a murder having already been committed, the body thrown into a ditch, then covered in cement and buried under landfill. The message I came away with was that Russians living in remote parts of Russia can be cruel, greedy, homicidal maniacs. I left the theater wanting to tear out the few hairs left on my head, in high distress (a half-liter bottle of ice-cold Pilsner Urquell took the edge off immediately). Not recommended.

“Cold Fever” (1995, dir. Fridrik Thor Fridriksson). This story is about a young Japanese businessman on a mission to find a specific river in an isolated patch of Iceland where his parents perished during a visit. The storyline is witty, the characters quirky (Lily Taylor, one of the goofiest, eccentric actresses in cinema today had a supporting role), and the photography of the majestic frozen countryside absolutely stunning. The film also presented a fascinating glimpse into Icelandic culture, bizarre cuisine and its cheery, at times aloof people, which I am assuming is partly accurate since the filmmaker is a native of Reykjavik. “Cold Fever” is a short, but wonderful, touching film. Highly recommended.

I hope to see more films this weekend if time permits.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/LB9JL9Nw_X8/golden-apricot-update.html/feed 0 Biting Another Golden Apricot http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/bbGULrpzxwU/biting-another-golden-apricot.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/bbGULrpzxwU/biting-another-golden-apricot.html#comments Mon, 12 Jul 2010 15:35:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-692270719862082654
The seventh anual Golden Apricot International Film Festival kicked off last night at Cinema Moscow on Abovian Street.






The festival premiered with Henri Verneuil classic film from 1991, "Mayrig," starring Omar Sharif and Claudia Cardinale, who is one of the most beautiful women that has ever graced European cinema, in the 1960s especially. Claudia was the honored guest last evening, a living legend who sparkled as she made her way across Charles Aznavour Square.



Claudia was accompanied by the director of the festival, Harutyun Khachatryan, Prime Minister Tigran Sarkisian and the Mayor of Yerevan, Gagik Beglaryan, who probably doesn't even know who she is, but that's besides the point.

Naturally, entrance to this screening was by invitation only. I can't imagine how people actually got tickets, I am assuming through business or political connections.


The man in the middle of the above shot with the video camera is Atom Egoyan, the Canadian filmmaker of Armenian descent, who essentially is an unsung genius of modern cinema. Beside him barely visible is his wife and muse, actress Arsinee Khanjian.

This morning at 10:00 am we saw one of the first films of the festival, a Spanish film called "Woman Without Piano" directed by Javier Rebollo. It is a visual document taking place over a 24-hour span of a mildly eccentric middle-aged woman married to a taxi driver who works at home as a hair removal specialist. Bored of her daily routine, in the late evening after her husband goes to bed she dusts off an old black wig hidden in the back of an overhead closet and runs away from home. Throughout the rest of the film the viewer follows her around in the dark, first at a Madrid train station, then walking around town after the station is mysteriously evacuated. She meets a young guy who is on his way back to Poland where he needs to pay off an unpaid bank loan and serve a one-week jail sentence as a penalty. They aimlessly wander the streets, and get separated along the way before reuniting, the woman (who towards the end of the film is identified by the name Rosa) taking frequent breaks from her roaming by chain smoking and drinking snifters full of brandy. At one point they even share a hotel room together. Back at the station, when the Polish kid is mysteriously taken way as she observes from afar while buying peach juice, she decides to return home and persist a little longer. It was a film about intersecting lives, lonely souls trying to find a place in the world. There are no deep underlying messages, but there doesn't ever have to be in cinema. That is what's so magic about the visual medium.

Tonight I am off to see a Theo Angelopoulos film from 1986 called "The Beekeeper," starring Marcello Mastroianni. I have seen two other films by the director, namely "Ulysse's Gaze" and "Eternity and a Day." His films are rather long and can be a bit tedious, but they are strangely beautiful. Festival updates to come.

]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/bbGULrpzxwU/biting-another-golden-apricot.html/feed 0 The Smiles of Vardavar http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/gAI1pXV8TR4/smiles-of-vardavar.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/gAI1pXV8TR4/smiles-of-vardavar.html#comments Sun, 11 Jul 2010 14:19:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-3909830834213019216
Today was Vardavar, the pagan-turned-Christian holiday, which is celebrated by people drenching one another with buckets of water all day long.  Some kids are getting creative by using high-pressure water guns that shoot streams at a considerable distance.


Naturally I observed some of the hysteria from my front and rear balconies. The street were nearly void of pedestrians all day long, reminiscent of the small town run by bandits in Akira Kurosawa's "Yojimbo." Instead, for some reason the street was filled mostly with teenage, testosterone fueled boys and the courtyard was occupied by smaller children and girls in their teens. The sexually repressed, hyperactive guys were basically throwing water on cars passing by and at each other, while they for the most part completely ignored the girls walking along the sidewalk, their own buckets in hand. Everyone was getting their water from the same source--the fountain located on the street corner just under my balcony.


The guys who chose to drench actual people for some odd reason chose defenseless middle aged men who were walking to the store or parking their taxis. Naturally they weren't all that pleased and arguments ensued. But the guys, rather than backing off and apologizing, instead confronted the disgruntled older men, who were obviously in no mood to participate in the Vardavar festivities to begin with, in a stand off.  When drivers protested, the kids hurled their empty buckets and made hand gestures at the cars as they drove away.



So rather than having a fun afternoon, the adolescent boys used the opportunity to take out their aggression on hapless bystanders and essentially prove their relevance in the world, that they are self-entitled to do as they please. Meanwhile, the completely ignored girls are standing around, nervously waiting for the guys to chase after them. That rarely happened, which was surreal to say the least.  The younger boys, however, had no problem tossing water at the girls, which was certainly encouraging since it reflected normal, natural behaviour.


Whatever -- these are some photos that I managed to take, catching the kids in action.  I was not able to capture an actual soaking unfortunately, since it has proven to be extremely difficult. There was no way I was I about to take pictures at street level because I didn't want my $500 camera to get ruined, I'm rather fond of it. Plus, my wife forbade me to leave the house during the day so I wouldn't get drenched, not that I would have cared given that it was 100 degrees F, so long as my camera was left at home.












Vardavar is a weird holiday when you think about it. But the young kids especially have a lot of fun, and that's ultimately what counts.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/gAI1pXV8TR4/smiles-of-vardavar.html/feed 0 At Mount Azhdahak http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/Fx3706yUZ5M/at-mount-azhdahak.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/Fx3706yUZ5M/at-mount-azhdahak.html#comments Tue, 06 Jul 2010 19:32:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-1665313649722100702

On Sunday Anush and I went on a hike to Mt. Azhdahak with a group of eager adventure seekers from my workplace. I would have posted this entry sooner had I not accidentally deleted the photos from the camera's SD card. Fortunately due to the mysterious wonders of complex algorithms and hidden cache, most of them were recovered.

Azhdahak is located in the Gegharkunik region, as part of the Geghama mountain chain. It is apparently the third highest mountain in Armenia. There are two ways to get there--via Lake Sevan, which is an arduous, committed journey that can potentially take days, or through the highlands of Kotayk via Geghard, which is how we went.



But in order to access the wavy plateau to make your trek to the mountain, it's necessary to climb the rocky hills, or rather other mountains, first along perilous dirt roads. This was accomplished by us cramming into two UAZ 4 x 4 all-terrain transport vans, which along with the "Vilis" sport utility vehicle made by the same company, are among the toughest vehicles manufactured in Russia (both are actually military vehicles). That 25 kilometer long sea-sickness inducing climb took about two hours with short stops along the way to gaze at ancient petroglyphs etched on flat stone faces and a peculiar stone monolith that Yezidi Kurds walk around several times for a successful marriage and fertility. There are many camp grounds occupied by Yezidis in those parts where they tend sheep and goats in the summer months.






The hike to the mountain from our drop-off location was 7.5 kilometers long, over several babbling brooks, rocky patches and at my count, eight snow fields, the last one being massive.  Just before my phone's battery ran out the GPS reading that it picked up showed that we were 10,500 feet above sea level near the base of the mountain. Azhdahak's summit is at an elevation of 11,801 feet.


Azhdahak is a dormant volcano, and the tons of tuf stone at the top and around the mountain demonstrate clear evidence of that. There is a small lake that occupies the floor of volcano's crater, which is accessible by a steep climb down. Anush and I did not actually go to the summit even though it was only another 100 feet or so above the lake. It was difficult to make the final ascent because I kept running out breath, although I did not feel physically tired, and just sitting (or napping in Anush's case) beside the lake for a half hour was enough for us. On second thought, it would have made sense to go up. There is a spectacular view of Lake Sevan from there.



The trek back to the vehicles was another 7.5 kilometers, perhaps a bit less because we took a "shortcut" by descending snow-covered hillsides. Luckily, I only fell on my ass a couple of times, which is a feat being the uncoordinated klutz that I am.


Our guides were Vladimir and Karen, both fantastic, warm-hearted guys. Actually it was Karen, an alpinist, who knows the landscape perfectly and got us there and back safely--an amazing guy. This was an awesome experience that I'm glad I didn't pass up.


For those who are inclined to go on hiking trips in Armenia, leave a comment if you intend to climb Azhdahak and I can put you in touch with those guys.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/Fx3706yUZ5M/at-mount-azhdahak.html/feed 0 Chef Miguel’s Culinary Delights at Goyesco http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/KdVt44SdECQ/chef-miguels-culinary-delights-at.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/KdVt44SdECQ/chef-miguels-culinary-delights-at.html#comments Sat, 03 Jul 2010 12:34:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-7837573199178875269 On the first or second day of every month Anush treats me to dinner at a restaurant in central Yerevan neither of us have ever gone to, usually serving national, non-Armenian cuisine--French, Italian, Chinese or whatever.

The dining room of Goyesco is on the ground floor, and all the walls as well as floor were wood (actually I think the walls were covered in simulated wood paneling but the effect was nice). The first thing I expected from Chef Miguel's impressive menu were several pages listing a few dozen tapas, the appetizers found in Spanish cuisine that you're supposed to order several of to satisfy your hunger. At least, that's what Spanish restaurants are like back in Boston.


Goyesco offers about 12 or so various tapas, one of which was a potato puree ball filled with wonderful cheeses, and another was a surprise, a savory meatless paste of some sort filled in tiny pastry cups, which was complimentary. We also ordered some bread slices that were slathered with a wonderful garlicky mayonaise. Then there was the salad for three, a basic lettuce, tomato and onion mélange with boiled egg quarters and black and green olives, sprinkled with tuna and laced with an olive oil dressing. Simple, yet perfect.



Then came the entrees. Anush's sister Gohar ordered a vegetable soup that was served slightly warm. The vegetables were cooked only slightly in order to savor the raw, organic textures of the local produce. Anush chose a chicken dish served on the bone but cut up into chunks with a light brown sauce, the ingredients of which I could not discern when tasting it. She wasn't impressed but I thought it was great; the chicken was moist, falling off the bone. I'll have to admit, it didn't come close to her stupendously prepared Indian-infused everything--meats, potatoes, beans, etc.--but it was tasty nevertheless.


I ordered an entrecôte steak, served perfectly medium rare, which was accompanied with quickly grilled peppers, onions, eggplant and tomatoes. Despite the generous portions along with the tapas and salad we ordered, we did not come out of there with bulging stomachs complaining of having eaten too much. There was something light about the food, I can't really explain it, but we left very satisfied. Gohar even called a friend while we were still seated to inform her she found a new place for lunch.

Goyesco is located not even a block from the Vernisage, on the corner of Alaverdian and Vartanantz Streets, so it's the perfect place for tourists to pop in for something to eat during what is expected (and already proven) to be a scorching summer. The staff is extremely helpful and friendly, treating us like we were family. Whenever I walk by there while taking Chi Chi for a stroll they go gaga-- last night they demanded that we take her inside the next time we pass by. The dining room is cool and exceptionally clean, and you will eat well for the same prices you see anywhere these days--between 2200 and 3500 dram per entree-- around $6-9. Highly recommended.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/KdVt44SdECQ/chef-miguels-culinary-delights-at.html/feed 0 Aghveran in the Afternoon http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/PnB-w_mJ0AU/aghveran-in-afternoon.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/PnB-w_mJ0AU/aghveran-in-afternoon.html#comments Sun, 27 Jun 2010 19:53:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-2831888226651469457
Aghveran, which is located in Armenia's Kotayk region (near the border with Aragatsotn) about a 40 minute drive from Yerevan, is one of the most picturesque areas I have ever visited in this country. The village is situated at the end of a long, narrow gorge through which a river runs.

Alongside the river are several picnic areas, and they all have shaded tables, playgrounds, spots for grilling and access to the water.  But as is the case in most of rural Armenia, if you need to use the toilet there's a bit of roughin' it involved.


For the most part the entire stretch of the river bank is forested, and the slopes are covered with trees, grasses and wild flowers.





It's been five years now that I have been going to the Aghveran area for a Sunday picnic, usually with a large, feisty group of people. In my experience there are three things that are mandatory at any Armenian summer afternoon feast: barbecue of any kind insulated by at least four leaves of lavash (today we had fish exclusively), sliced tomatoes and cucumbers that optionally can be served as a salad,  and, you guessed it, vodka. So long as those items are on the table, everyone is pleased. A guest one or two minutes into the meal might start criticizing the chef whose comments will be supported by some and vehemently opposed by others, but usually after a shot or two everyone forgets about how little salt was used in the meat marinade.





The gorgeous, peaceful afternoon in the country was another refreshing reminder about why I love Armenia so much and the reason for why I chose to live here. I really don't understand what everyone in the diaspora is waiting for.



All photos taken by Christian Garbis.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/PnB-w_mJ0AU/aghveran-in-afternoon.html/feed 0 Why I’m Going to Work Late Today http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/I4IS8rcZotU/why-im-going-to-work-late-today.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/I4IS8rcZotU/why-im-going-to-work-late-today.html#comments Wed, 23 Jun 2010 06:36:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-389040412921841284
Rather than doing these repairs in the evening so that business for likely countless thousands of Armenians in Yerevan and other areas would not be impaired, they've decided to do the work in the middle of the day. That means shopkeepers and other businesses that depend on computer networks to operate will lose profits from transactions they could have made during a 6.5 hour period.

The employees of my workplace are expected to make up the time somehow, perhaps staying an hour later each day for a week or longer, but that's no big deal. What's odd is that the Armenian government is allowing this prolonged power outage to take place at all, knowing full well that the livelihood of many people will be impacted to some degree. Yet power outages are not rare in Yerevan; sometimes the lights unexpectedly go out for an hour, possibly longer at some point during the day.

I don't know if there's any other country on earth claiming economic growth, during a period where much of the world is still struggling with the global recession of last year, that would allow something like this to happen. Armenia's National Statistics Service is claiming that the country experienced 8.8 percent growth in the first five months of 2010, while inflation went up 7.6 percent--that's a lot. Exactly how that growth is being manifested is naturally not clear given Armenia's history of surviving under the cloak of a "shadow economy."Meantime the tax authorities keep hassling small and medium-sized business, sometimes shutting them down for days until discrepancies are resolved. Oligarchic structures are left alone. And there's no numbers yet (I think) to indicate how much cash has entered the country in remittances during that period.

So the question remains: How can such growth exist if there are obstacles blocking legitimate business from being conducted?
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/I4IS8rcZotU/why-im-going-to-work-late-today.html/feed 0 The Fountain http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/i1D79vHBtYE/fountain.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/i1D79vHBtYE/fountain.html#comments Mon, 14 Jun 2010 10:47:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-2259883587767812593
From the spacious balcony of my apartment there is a perfect bird's eye view of the water fountain on the corner of the street. It's one of these fountains that was installed around a dozen or so years ago in memory of someone in the neighborhood who passed away, according to my landlord.

At virtually every minute of the day you find people drinking from it, and sometimes they even wash up or fill plastic bottles. Depending on the time of day, I would guesstimate that on average someone approaches that fountain every 10 seconds. They even wait in line for up to a minute or longer. One of my wife's uncles claims that the water from this fountain is the best in Yerevan, and whenever he's in the center he makes a point of stopping by there. I don't know if they managed to tap into a spring or if it's just ordinary tap water, but when the chilly, bubbly jet rises into the back of your throat on a 90 degree day to instantly cool you down, you don't care about where the source is.

It's always been fascinating for me to observe people hover around the fountain like bees scoping out the nectar of orange blossoms. I've been meaning to photograph the entire sipping and washing process for a while now. And it's always peaceful (although I remember there was an argument over someone "hogging" the fountain last year).

All of the photos below were taken at various times of the day, from late morning to early evening, during the weekend. There were many great shots but I must have taken close to a hundred--here's some of the best ones.




This bald guy was very busy, with about six bottles to fill and his own endless thirst to quench. He must have been there for 15 minutes, all the while letting others have a sip, wash their fruit, whatever.



A cop came by to make sure everything was orderly. Here he wanted to be certain that the man's tomatoes and cucumbers were being washed properly.





Even Chi Chi got into the act at one point (although this photo and the three others came out overexposed, I wasn't paying attention at that moment to the aperture).






The woman washing the containers works at the fruit stand which is located directly below my balcony. She kept going back and forth.








That woman putting her hand over the spigot made the other two do the same. Very pushy lady.




This woman was drinking incognito. Perhaps she didn't want to be seen by the neighbors.






This last shot above was taken at around 12:30 am. In the late hours usually night owls and taxi drivers approach the fountain, once every few minutes or so. I was able to get the shot without a flash thanks to the bright arc lamps just across the street and on the corner.

All of these shots were taken using my trusty Pentax K100D Super DSLR. At one point I mounted one of my old zoom lenses that I bought years ago for my Pentax K1000 film camera. Both of them are great, solid cameras, I've taken wonderful photos with each one over the years. The only complaint with the K100D Super is that I cannot take black and white photos with the built-in settings; I have to convert color photos to grayscale during the photo editing process, which is essentially cheating.

I'll be posting more fun photos as the summer ripens....
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/i1D79vHBtYE/fountain.html/feed 0 Check Out Footprints Blog http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/D5-XJiGqmM8/check-out-footprints-blog.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/D5-XJiGqmM8/check-out-footprints-blog.html#comments Fri, 11 Jun 2010 07:42:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-2612894250972372020 blog about Armenia, Footprints, which is sponsored by Hetq Online. Just over a year has passed since it went online and I still don't know what people honestly think about it, as feedback has generally been low.

Footprints differs from this Armenian blog in that I provide alternate viewpoints about current important political, social and environmental issues in Armenia. I try to be as objective as I can when weighing both sides of controversial subjects but inevitably my opinions, occasionally strongly biased, take precedence.

But the main goal from the onset was to generate a buzz and facilitate an exchange of opinions in the comments section for topics discussed, which regrettably has not yet happened to the extent that I hoped for.

There is much ado about the proposals for opening foreign language schools in Armenia now, and I've addressed the issue in two different articles. This is currently a very controversial subject, with mostly politicians, journalists and some ordinary citizens expressing their strong views about it.

Last year I presented my thoughts on the infamous Turkish-Armenian protocols, which have all but fizzled out.

I've also expressed my opinions about the opposition and what they should or shouldn't be doing, while trying to implement an objective voice. I was never happy about the sentencing of Armenian opposition activists as I thought they were by and large unfair, which is not to say that I support the opposition--I actually don't really care for either side. I tend to be critical of both the parties in opposition and the authorities who are or once were in power.

There's sometimes news about rumors that people like to spread, which are baseless more often than not; nevertheless it's interesting to examine them.

I also publish some photography on Footprints as well. Just before the New Year's I uploaded some interesting pictures about life in the open Armenian market.

If you do decide to visit the Footprints blog, please feel free to leave comments, either positive or negative so I can better gauge what I am doing right and what needs improvement.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/D5-XJiGqmM8/check-out-footprints-blog.html/feed 0 The Joys of Car Inspection in Yerevan http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/yI4LKleZ7uc/joys-of-car-inspection-in-yerevan.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/yI4LKleZ7uc/joys-of-car-inspection-in-yerevan.html#comments Mon, 07 Jun 2010 09:51:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-3812355303943807961 tekh osmotr,” a Russian term. I found out from a fellow employee last Friday that the law has changed for this year regarding when the inspection sticker expires. In Armenia, if you do not get a new inspection sticker within twelve months of the expiration date you can potentially be fined 50,000 dram by the traffic police.

In years past as I described in my last post on this blog about car inspections in Armenia five years ago you had until August 31 to have the car inspected, which resulted in a mad rush to the bank for making the related payments. For 2009 I had my car inspected in May, so I was a bit uneasy about having to pay the fine. And if I was required to pay one, I wouldn’t necessarily know where to go to do so (I was assuming I would need to pay a visit to the department of motor vehicles division in Erebuni where I originally registered the car).

In any case, each year there is a ritual that every motorist (or a proxy) has to perform for the car inspection and payment of all the related fees. My car is registered in the “small” center of Yerevan, which means that I have to go to the district administrative building, or “taghabedaran” in Armenian, at the corner of Deryan and Sayat Nova Streets where I went with my wife for moral support, getting there promptly at 9:00am, when they opened for business. Inside are two hallways that veer off diagonally to the left and the right on either side of a grand staircase in the center of the lobby. I knew from experience that I had to go down the left corridor and enter the second to last office on the right—there must be a dozen or more offices along the way, and nearly all of the doors are closed with the exception of the one I visited.

Through a narrow window that you have to bend down to peek through was an attractive, young woman sitting at a computer, to whom I gave my vehicle registration, which is about the size of a credit card. She typed something on the computer keyboard and then on a small square piece of paper wrote “8000,” then handed me the paper and registration.

Next I had to enter the “post office” in the lobby, which is more of an administrative office to make various utility payments than a place to mail a letter. We got their a couple of minutes too soon, so we waited until the woman who works there opened the door, turn on her computer and wipe the dust off the counter before she was ready to receive our payments. I had to pay the “ecological tax” as well as other miscellaneous taxes or fees that people don’t really understand—they just pay the money and get the process over with. I was not an exception to this practice. I gave her 27,000 dram (including the 19,000 dram she asked from me) and received some receipts, which had vague information printed on them regarding what I exactly paid, although at first glance the items seemed detailed. Actually I think the required 8,000 dram is an excise tax and another amount is related to the actual inspection sticker—however much they cost individually I paid them both. The two receipts were printed in duplicate on a single sheet of paper each, so after placing a ruler down the middle of the sheets she ripped them in half against the edge and gave me my copies.

Then we went back to see the attractive woman and gave her the receipts plus my registration. She entered some additional information, stamped the receipts and we were out the door. It was all relatively painless taking only twenty minutes to accomplish, just as it was the last time I made these payments two years ago (my wife took care of it last year but forgot to pay the fees for the actual tekh osmotr which I then paid at the inspection station).

Two years ago the government decided to privatize the vehicle inspection process, meaning that although you still have to make payments at your local district administration building, you still need to pay additional fees, which could be bribes in disguise. One year I think I paid another 8,000 dram for the sticker although I had already done so, but was clueless after having made so many separate payments. Plus I was getting conflicting information from acquaintances about what to pay and how much. The woman at the post office told me that I had to go to the inspection station on Heratsi Street, located across from the Bellagio restaurant. Yet for the last two years I had gone to a different station located on Arshakuniants Street, found behind the Jermuk Group distribution center. I asked her why I couldn’t go there, and she replied that if I did I would have to go to a bank and make payments there for some odd reason. Since I really didn’t care where I went for the inspection, I told her never mind.

The inspection stations are open daily except Sundays from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. So I decided to have the inspection done today before going to work—by the time I arrived there it was 9:50 am. Usually you have to drive your car into the garage and the “technicians” perform various tests, for emissions and I think alignment. They would park each axle of my car on some rollers and step on the gas to make them turn for some reason. Then you would have to pay other fees, like I previously mentioned, before they approved everything and gave you the sticker. This morning they didn’t waste their time with any of that. One of the two men working there, both middle aged, asked me to go inside and take a seat. Then he inquired whether there was anything wrong with the Niva, for instance the clutch, and if I was satisfied. I told him I was very pleased. He said that it was best to get down to it and they asked me to make two payments—one for the emissions and the other for something else I didn’t catch. The woman at the computer (also fairly attractive) asked me for my phone number, and that was it.

Next was the moment of truth—it was time to determine whether I had to pay the 50,000 dram fine. The man asked me if there was a “VI” printed on the sticker (meaning the sixth month), and if there wasn’t one he could “change it,” which I took to mean he already had some for July. Lucky for me, the sticker in my windshield did have a June expiration, so I was all set. Had I arrived on July 1, I would have been out about $130. Then I was off to work via the Monument neighborhood beside Victory Park.

By comparison, in Massachusetts getting a new sticker is a two-step process. First you have to make sure that your registration is valid, and if it isn’t you need to make a payment by mailing a check to the registry of motor vehicles—it expires every two or three years. Then you simply go to a gas station where they do inspections, give them your registration, and wait for them to check everything with your assistance, like all the lights, the emissions and so forth. The entire process takes about 15 minutes assuming there is no wait, and they even scrape off the old sticker to affix the new one (Armenian motorists have to do this). You make essentially one payment for the inspection, which includes all the service fees, emissions tests fees and state taxes. You don’t necessarily know where every cent is going to, but at least there is very little aggravation involved.

The process in Armenia is getting easier I have to admit—when I first did this about five years ago I had to sign several forms in triplicate with each signature needing to be stamped. That effort has thankfully been done away with. Hopefully by 2020, the tekh osmotr process with be streamlined even more. The total cost for the inspection and related taxes/fees was 32,000 dram, or around $83.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/yI4LKleZ7uc/joys-of-car-inspection-in-yerevan.html/feed 0 Chi Chi in the Tall Grass http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/51JFQ1aR1e0/chi-chi-in-tall-grass.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/51JFQ1aR1e0/chi-chi-in-tall-grass.html#comments Thu, 03 Jun 2010 06:29:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-2279736448271416826
A drinking water reservoir is located there, which is protected by state police, and I always have to get permission from them when I want to stroll around the area, enjoying the pristine nature. Although on the other side of the reservoir hidden high in the hills one or two--possibly more--oligarchs have residences, and I can always see Japanese SUVs with "pretty numbers" on their license plates jolt across the dam to get there. The area is simply gorgeous, and the most wonderful thing about it is the absence of development--no hotels, casinos, gaudy restaurants, nothing. Hopefully, no one will venture to touch it. Technically no one can, since its under government protection and the area must not be polluted. Then again, so are many wildlife reserves, and that doesn't keep the big shots from hunting.

Chi Chi cannot walk through the grass very well because of her diminutive height, as you can see from the video, so she essentially has to hop around like a bunny rabbit.

]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/51JFQ1aR1e0/chi-chi-in-tall-grass.html/feed 0 Eurovision Results In, Armenia Takes Seventh Place http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/oOlM8jZoaS4/eurovision-results-in-armenia-places.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/oOlM8jZoaS4/eurovision-results-in-armenia-places.html#comments Sat, 29 May 2010 22:37:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-656052561640885949
Armenia, gracing the stage in Oslo with the absolutely fabulous Eva Rivas, came up with the best pop song I have heard them deliver--"Apricot Stone." The audience in Oslo, where the contest was held, gave Eva rapturous applause. Her performance I thought was really amazing, well choreographed and very lively. Unfortunately, most of Europe didn't agree. Germany taking 246 points won first place, with their performer Lena's song, "Satellite."

UPDATED:  Armenia ended up taking seventh place. Turkey and Romania took second and third place, respectively. As for Armenia's immediate neighbors, Azerbaijan came in at fifth place while Georgia took ninth.

Here's how some of the countries voted for Armenia:

Russia gave 12 points--the most possible from a single country--to Armenia, thanks in part to the 2 million Armenians there.

Greece gave 7.

France gave 6.

Spain gave 8.

Bulgaria gave 8. (10 to Turkey, 12 to Azerbaijan)

Ukraine gave 6. (8 to Turkey, 10 to Russia, 12 to Azerbaijan)

Latvia gave 1--thanks Latvia.

Cyprus gave 7.

Belarus gave 5.

Belgium gave 7.

The Netherlands gave 12 (the Dutch and the Armenians have a long, amicable history together).

Israel gave 12 (probably to annoy Turkey since they're not the best of friends at the moment).

Macedonia gave 4.

Moldova gave 6.

Georgia gave 10. (8 for Azerbaijan)

Sweden gave 1--no more Swedish meatballs for me (not that I ever ate them anyway, nor do I even know if they are actually Swedish).

Armenia, incidentally, gave 8 votes to Ukraine, 10 to Russia, 12 to Georgia.

Google should get out of the future prediction business.
]]> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/oOlM8jZoaS4/eurovision-results-in-armenia-places.html/feed 0 Armenia Awaits Eurovision 2010 Results http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/nJrpUR_bJMU/armenia-awaits-eurovision-results.html http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/NotesFromHairenik/~3/nJrpUR_bJMU/armenia-awaits-eurovision-results.html#comments Sat, 29 May 2010 20:29:00 +0000 Christian Garbis tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9085789.post-6601730213528142165 predicted to take second place according to the soothsayers at Google with her tune "Apricot Stone," which I must admit is pretty catchy. It's nearly 1:30 am. Yerevan is extremely anxious, there is a huge party around the pond near the Opera House. The entire block has been closed to traffic. There a stage was set up for a pre-finals performance, various acts played including Andre, Inga and Anush and a group of three drummers, the name escapes me, who were fantastic. At one point one of the lamp posts caught on fire, most likely due to the shoddy electrical wiring, and the lights went out, thus no microphones. They banged away regardless, keeping spirits high, tricolor flags were waving, the sweet scent of sunflower seeds cracking was in the air. It's always pleasant watching people having a blast of a time.

As soon as the final results are confirmed I will post them. I don't remember Armenia ever being so excited about the Eurovision contest.
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